Cover letter

To whom it may concern,

 I am interested in applying for a Marine Cabinet Making position currently available at your business. I have recently completed a Certificate in Applied Technology: Boat Building, and also have a Certificate in Applied Technology: Furniture and Cabinet Making.

 I am young, confident, hard working and eager to apply my skills in a working environment. I work well in a team environment and also confident and capable working on my own. I have experience working with a wide range of machinery and how to be safe and mature whilst working with them. I am looking forward to expanding my knowledge in the marine cabinet industry.

Please contact me if you have any questions and I look forward to hearing from you.

Yours sincerely,

James Granger

Word Document

Using a word document to open and save, input and print is a easy thing to accomplish, i will run down in steps how to achieve this.

Step by step: Open and Save

1- To open a file you simply open Microsoft Word.
2- Pick on the "File" tool bar at the top of Microsoft Word.
3- Scroll down to open.
4- This will now bring up a box showing what is in the folder you are selected on.
5- find where the document you want to open is.
6- Double click it and you will have your file in Microsoft Word.

1- To save a document Pick on the "file" tool bar again.
2- Scroll down to "save"
3- A box will once again apare and you will be asked where you would like to place your file.
4- Choose where you want your file to be, name the file then click save.

Input file from the internet and printing

1- Open the page that you wish to copy to Word.
2- Highlight what you wish to copy by clicking the left button and holding down that button.
3- Still holding that buttomn move your mouse to where you want your copy to finish, all the words that you want to copy will now be highlighted in black.
4- Then right click the  highlighted area and a small box will apare.
5- scroll down and pick on "Copy".
6- Go back to your Word document and right click on a blank page.
7- Scroll down again and pick on "Paste" then you have transfered text from the internet to your Word document.

1- To print start of by again clicking on the "File" tool bar again.
2- Scroll down and pick on "Print"
3- Without changing any settings they computer will do the standard print and print what ever is on your Word document and print one copy of each page on Word.

File managing

There are many ways to manage important documents or files.  Im going to explain the purpose and benefits of using an external storage device to back up documents.

A USB drive is a external storage device that comes in many different sizes ranging from 512 megabytes to 16 gigabytes and getting bigger.  USB drives are good little tools to have, they store a whole load of data and they fit perfectly on your keys.  They simply work by grabbing your data file and transfering it over to the USB.

Step by step:

1- Inject your USB device.
2- Open the folder where the data file you want to put onto the USB drive is.
3- Right click the file you wish to transfer and scroll down to "Transfer to".
4- Pick on the USB device that will usualy say the brand name of the USB and which usb port it is into.
5- Wait for the transfer to complete.
6- To safely eject your device take your mouse to the bottem right of you screen then go to the icon that        represents that there is a external device plugged into your computer and double click, then click safely eject and your are safe to remove the device.  Doing this action will help prevent the loss or corruption of any transferred data.

For much larger storage unit you would be looking at a External Hard drive.  This is a more preferred option to use when dealing with larger files such as movies or large amounts of music.  The action is applied in the same way as with a USB drive when transferring data (as explained above).

Composite manual

This document is a manual of how to create a composite shape to a given set of plans.  The composite shape I'm going to discuss is the girder in the SHAW 550 yacht that we built in class.  The girder is and important structural member of the boat, it runs from the transom of the boat forward till you get near the cockpit.  The girder serves as a structural part of the cockpit floor so that when your walking along the deck the girder and support some of the load.

Steps:

1-  Make your composite product, don't force yourself to work within a boundry, try and keep it larger "you can always take off but not put back on"

2-  Create a working surface, larger than what you need.  Make it workable to standards of what you need.

3-  Gather and cut the materials that you need.  With the purfirated plastic you can cut that roughy to the size of the girder This will consist of resin, glass, purfirated plastic, mesh, vacuum bag and vacuum tape and have them by your table ready for it to be applyed.

4-  On your table that you have made to vacuum onto, put your vacuum tape around the edge, you would want to put the tape on before hand because that reduces the risk of the edge of the table to be contaminated like if resin goes to the edge of the the table and then you try and put down your tape it will not stick.

5-  Place your foam girder on the table and mix up 4-5 pumps of epoxy resin into a clean container and stir for 2 minutes and make sure that someone records the time that the resin was poured into the container becuase depending on the weather the resin has a pot life and will start to gel if not applyed fast enough.

6-  Lay your glass over the top of the foam girder and start wetting the resin out using squigies.  A good technique is to wet out the centre of your glass so that it can roughly stay in possition while your applying it to the other areas.

7-  Next you put your peel ply over the glass.
8-  Grab you purfirated plastic and lay it over the top of the girder but make sure it is kept within the boundries of the vacuum tape.

9-  Over the top of the purfirated plastic you want to put down your mesh still staying within the vacuum tape.

10-  Now for the vacuum bag, take you bag and work fown one side of your bag, while you are putting down your bag you need to put in some darts.  Darts are massive creases on the bag which helps the bag get around and into corners and tight spots.  You need quite a lot of these darts so dont be shy.

11-  Grab you hose and make sure it has mesh on and in the tip.

12-  While you are putting down the bag make a spot for you to put your hose into, the hose needs to fully sealed so cover it with vacuum tape and make sure it is pressed down onto the bag and the table with prenty of vacuum tape.

13-  Once you have finished putting down your bag and connecting the hose into the mix turn the hose on.

14-  Walk around the vacuum and listen for the whistle noises coming out of the bag which means there is an air hole that needs to be closed up so you can get a full vacuum.

15-  CLEAN UP.

The stack is made of different layers, each with different/similar perposes which are:

Glass- Glass is the external/internal skin  that helps stiffen up the boat in a massive way and protects the surface.

Peel Ply- Peel ply is a cloth that goes over the top of the glass and it soaks up excess resin and also heaps to protect the glass.

Purfirated Plastic- Purfirated plastic is oviously plastic but purfirated plastic has hole in it and this helps the let the air flow though and go out the bag to get a good vacuum.  This plastic also helps with excess resin.

Mesh- Mesh is like a shade sail type material that has larger hole in it and has the same purpose as the purfirated plastic, catching excess resin and heaps with the release of air.

Vaccum bag- Vacuum bag is a large plastic that is much bigger than the project you are doing.  You don't want any holes in the bag or else the bag becomes useless.

EDB240 - Fibre Glass                                                      Peel Ply

Purfirated Plastic                                                               Mesh

Vacuum Tape                                                                   Vacuum Bag

 Vacuuming the girder

Reflection: There were a few things that we can improve on and make better for next time, like when putting in the hose for vacuum you could put the hose at the top of a dart so the when the pump is turned on, the vacuum doesn't pull down the hose and create a bumo or hollow in the laminate.

Another thing we could have done was glassing both side at the same time, this would have been more efficient and saved more time.

Holiday!

I went on holiday cruise for a week so i missed out on a lot of the construction of the boat.  So when i came back everyone had been working on the deck and getting that all glassed up and putting it in the hot box for it to cook.  So when i got back the first thing i did was cut out the hatch for the cock pit and was dry fitting the deck to check the bulkheads that were in there.  Unfortunatly we had a fairly big problem with them but it is fixable but a problem none the less.  The next step was to cut the deck to size, bevel it and fit that into situe.

Gluing the deck down was the next step and we started it by applying the epoxy in the places where the deck would touch the flange, gerder flange, bulkhead and transom.  When the deck gets lowered down we need to hold down with preasure untill the glue sets so we made some tool that we can cramp the deck down using the frames.  After we put the deck down someone (ME) had to getting in the cockpit which is a very small area and then had to go down the side past the station 7 bulkhead and reach the station 11 bulkhead and clean off the excess glue that was in there, very very tricky job. 

On the wednesday we did some coving up forward and prepared for flipping the boat over.  When flipping it over we had to get some extra hands from upstairs and after we got it over the class went down to the bar and a drink as it is tradition to do so.

Refection

I dont have a lot of reflection to discuss about the collision bulkhead because i didnt see or have anything to do with it and the whole thing got knocked up in 2 days.

The first floor that was put down took quite a long time, the team was a bit unorganised and didnt quite cut things big enough and things had to get redone.  But by the time they went through and started doing the others they got faster, better and more efficient when applying the galss, now safe to say they will have no problems glassing any again.

The glass plate and carbon uni's were prity straight forward American Chris and I installed those with out too much problems.

The glassing of the rest of the deck was a very consentrated operation and was done very swiftly and carefull.  Not too much hassle.

Tutor Chris was the one that did the splash so i better not say that there was anything wrong with that one : P
"THATS A JOKE!!"

Hull, Deck, centre case and splash

Furhter developments on the hull consists of setting in the collision bulkhead, fitting the tube that goes in the bow of the boat, glassing of the floors and the centre case

The collisions bulkhead is a 8mm peice of foam that was made to the shape of the boat right up forward.  The bulkhead goes across the boat and serves 2 main purposes * giving strutural ingegrity to the boat, giving it more stiffness against the waves. Never good if your boat cant take the force of the waves :P  And the bulkhead also serves as structural part for the forward part of the deck to rest on.

There is a tube that goes up at the very very forward part of the boat, it goes through the collision bulkhead and through the nose cone of the bow.  This tube is just a case that holds in the prod which holds out the main sail (may need to check if that is corret)

The floors that i mentioned in my previous post has to be glass to keep it in place and add more stiffness.  Ultimately all the stiffness and strength in the boat comes from the glass thats laminated on so you would want all the parts of your boat to have glass on to get the maximum potentioal of strength of your boat.

The centre case in this boat is shaped like a trapezoid, it is made out of glass and goes right through the boat.  The perpose for a centre case is to hold the centre board which is a part of the keal.  This add balance to the yacht, unfortunatly i dont know too much on the subject so i cannot elaborate on the subject.

The deck has a few extra things to be done to it, theres the 2 mast plate peices, we will just say the "centre case plate" not sure what its really called and the carbon uni's and glassing the rest of the deck.

There were 2 types of mast plates that we put on the deck.  The first on is placed on the aft end of the blister.  This plate is a massive peice of glass made of several layers of glass and is prity heavy but is very strong and stiff.  This plate is about 120mm long and 80mm wide and half of the plate lays ont the blister and half of it hangs off, the reason for that is that the mast sits on top of this plate but the designer wants the centre of the mast to be on the centre of the bulkhead thats in there so therefore the centre of that plates centre is in line with the centre of the bulkhead.  The 2nd mast plate sit in the bulkhead at the very top of the but down the thickness of blister foam so it sits under and its aim is to take the massive load force that comes from the mast and spreads across the top of the bulkhead.

Carbon uni's is a fibre that only has the fibres going in 1 direction.  We put these carbon uni's diagonally down from the plate thats at the top of the bulkhead and runs down to the cockpit sole, there is another peice of carbon uni running across the the boat just above the cockpit sole.  These uni's serve as a load spreader, when load or preasure goes on the blister to the plate under it transfers to the carbon uni's then runs down, under the bulkhead on the deck it carries down underneath but in a mirror image to the top of part, those mirrored peices run down to the hull then the loads gets transfered down there also.

Glassing the rest of the deck deffinately seems like a harder task to do than what the aft part of the deck does because we have to glass the transition from the cockpit sole to the blister and the foredeck which does pose as a challenge but once we started to get it underway it wasnt so hard.  I think that is because we were deffinately more concentrated on what we were doing and learned from our mistake on the transom glassing but it did take a while.  A lot of darts were put into this bag because there is a tremendous amount of shape change in this boat but we got it done successfully.  On the deck we used the ADR resin which is a different type of resin we previously used and has a much longer pot life so we have more time to work with it.

A splash is something that takes the shape of a certain part of the boat so that when you turn the boat over you can place that splash on the ground and rest the boat on the top of it.  The splash is made out of several different meterials includeing double bias glass cloth and a few more things which i cant really remember (i will correct when i find out what they are)